This is the first in a series of articles that will provide sound advice if you are planning a building or remodeling project and have plans to include a gas hearth product. To begin with, it’s important to know and understand the differences between a gas fireplace, a gas fireplace insert and a gas log set. These are three distinct products, for three distinct types of applications. These articles will explain the differences in each of these products and important points to consider before making a purchase. But first, let’s start with a thorough definition of each.
GAS FIREPLACES
A gas fireplace consists of a steel firebox that contains a burner. This burner could be a ceramic or stainless steel tube that has many ports or holes in it to allow the flames to be seen. The burner is designed to accommodate a specific set of logs or other media, such as colored glass beads or stones.
Gas fireplaces are built into a framed 2×4 or 2×6 stud wall. The firebox, described above, is surrounded by an insulated housing or shell that protects the stud wall from excessive heat. The term “zero clearance” (ZC) means the fireplace, thanks to the insulated shell, can actually be in contact with combustible framing members and will prevent the wall from getting too hot. See the sketch and note how a typical ZC fireplace can be easily built into a wall in your home.
Gas fireplaces have a large piece of sealed, ceramic glass that enables a splendid view of the fire. These fireplaces are “direct vented”. That means the combustion process is sealed and air for the fire comes from the outside, via a special co-axial pipe. Room air is not used for combustion, but rather is heated as it circulates around the hot, steel firebox. Then the warm air is returned to the room with the assistance of a small, variable speed fan.
There are dozens of techniques to provide that personalized, finished look around a zero clearance gas fireplace. Cultured stone, brick, steel, ceramic tile, granite and marble are all popular and common options. A gas fireplace is typically controlled with a remote or activated with an on/off wall switch.
Gas Fireplace Intrigue Ambiance
GAS FIREPLACE INSERTS
A gas fireplace insert is designed to be slid into (or inserted) into an existing wood burning fireplace. A gas insert will convert your old wood burning fireplace into an efficient and reliable form of heat and enjoyment for your family. Commonly called just an “insert”, these units also consist of a steel firebox that contains a burner. The burner can be a ceramic material or a stainless steel tube. Either will allow the gas flames to be enjoyed with logs, colored glass beads or stones.
An electric and gas supply line will need to be installed into the existing wood burning fireplace. Two flexible aluminum pipes are installed up the chimney. One brings combustion air into the firebox, the other vents combustion by-products, out.
Inserts are never to be built into a framed wall. An insert does not have any type of insulated housing around the firebox.
The ceramic glass on an insert is sealed. Gas inserts are also “direct vented”. Outside combustion air is funneled to the firebox with a flexible aluminum pipe installed through the chimney. Like its ZC gas fireplace cousin, air from the room is heated as it circulates around the steel firebox. Then, this warm air is returned to the room with the aid of a small quiet fan.
The finished look of an insert includes surround panels that are used to cover up the rest of the wood fireplaces’ opening. Older, outdated fireplaces are often updated with a new mantel and/or cultured stone or brick.
Gas Insert Ambiance
GAS LOG SETS
Gas logs are used to update an existing wood burning fireplace. They are normally purchased for decorative reasons, rather than for heating purposes.
Basically, a gas log set is several attractive logs, designed with a burner, on a grate. Gas logs will modernize an old wood burning fireplace, but will not provide the efficiencies or heat output that many people want. Gas logs do not come in a steel firebox. They are simply installed into an existing wood burning fireplace.
The amount of natural gas or LP a log set uses is often 2½ or 3 times more than the fuel consumption of a gas insert. A gas supply line will need to be installed into the fireplace. No electrical connection is necessary, as gas logs do not have fans to circulate warm air.
Gas logs use room air for combustion.
The damper on the chimney needs to be fully open when burning a vented gas log set. Unvented gas logs do not need the damper open. However, unvented gas logs are not permitted in some areas, so be sure to check with your WE LOVE FIRE® expert regarding specific code requirements in your locale.
The chart below will summarize the differences between a zero clearance gas fireplace, a fireplace insert and a gas log set. And now hopefully, you have a better understanding of what product will work best for you!
GAS FIREPLACE
GAS FIREPLACE INSERT
GAS LOG SET
Is built into a framed wall:
Yes
No
No
Must be installed into an existing fireplace:
No
Yes
Yes
Operated with a remote control:
Yes
Yes
Yes
Vertically or horizontally venting options:
Yes
No
No
Vented through an existing chimney w/flex pipe:
No
Yes
Yes
Steel firebox with integrated burner:
Yes
Yes
Yes
Available in natural and LP gas:
Yes
Yes
Yes
Quiet, variable speed fan:
Yes
Yes
No
Typical amount of gas used per hour:
20-40,000 BTU’s
15-35,000 BTU’s
60-80,000 BTU’s
Easy and convenient to operate:
Yes
Yes
Yes
Several sizes, styles and options available:
Yes
Yes
Yes
Rated for energy efficient:
Yes
Yes
No
Future articles will discuss more details of these three categories of hearth products.
BELOW IS A LIST OF FIREPLACE AND GRILL STORES THAT SERVICE NEW YORK (NY)
START WITH A WIRE BRUSH AND STEEL WOOL
The first step is to move the stove to a work space or thoroughly protect the area around the stove with drop cloths. Things may get a wee bit dirty!
If possible, remove the door from the stove and the glass from the door frame. Plan to replace both the door gasket and the glass gasket.
Any peeling, blistering or chalking of rusty old paint must be removed. Do this by aggressively scrubbing the top and sides of the stove with a stiff bristled wire brush. Coarse steel wool or even sand paper may work well, too. Using a shop vac, clean up all the dust and flakes of rust. If you’re doing this project outside and you have access to an air compressor, blow off all the dust.
This is also the time to remove any old gasketing by thoroughly scraping the door and glass channels. Inspect and if necessary, remove and replace any loose refractory cement from the interior of the stove. Any crumbling or broken firebrick should be replaced.
RUST REMOVER
The next order of business is to remove all signs of rust. Using a rust remover from your WE LOVE FIRE® dealer or the hardware stove, spread it generously on the stove’s top and sides, and on the door. Most rust removers need a heavy application and need to soak for several minutes before scrubbing with steel wool. Follow the directions on the bottle.
Depending on the severity of the rust, some people formulate their own rust remover by mixing a smooth paste of baking soda and water. Naval jelly can be another option. Leave either mixture on the stove, liberally applied, for an hour before scrubbing with steel wool.
The key to this step is to be patient. Surface preparation is very important! Don’t rush it! Try to completely clean any signs of rust from the surface by wiping with dry cloths until no rust residue is seen. You may have to repeat this process.
In addition to all the rust, make sure that any other contaminants, like oil and grease, have been removed from the stove. Do not use mineral spirits or a paint thinner on the appliance. These leave a residue that will affect the adhesion of the paint.
Once you’re satisfied with the condition of the stove, let it thoroughly dry for several hours or better yet, overnight.
LET’S PAINT!
There are three key elements when you get to this point in the project:
1) Take your time, do not rush.
2) Three thinner coats of paint are much better than one heavier coat.
3) Make sure you use the correct type of paint. It needs to be a high temperature, stove paint.
The two primary manufacturers of high temp stove paint are Stove Bright and Thurmalox. Your WE LOVE FIRE® expert will have paint on the shelf. Buy one of these brands and simply follow the instructions on the can. Don’t try to cover everything with one coat; think three lighter, thinner coats instead of trying to cover everything with the first coat of paint.
If the stove is down to the bare, shiny metal and you want to use a primer coat, be sure it’s compatible with the high temperature aerosol stove paint. Both manufacturers make a high temp primer paint.
For most stoves, two cans of paint should be sufficient. If you’re repainting the top only, one will suffice. Incidentally, your black stove does not have to stay black any longer! There are over 30 colors of high temperature paint for wood-burning stoves!
DRYING AND CURING
High temperature stove paint dries quickly. Allow 15 – 30 minutes between thin coats. The paint will be dry enough to touch in about 2 hours. You’ll need to wait several hours, though before the “curing process” for your stove. This is probably a good time to replace the door gasket and the gasket material for the glass.
The paint will give off fumes and smoke during the first few initial burns. Again, follow the instructions on the can, but two or three small and quick fires will properly cure the new paint to the stove.
During these brief fires, there might be some visible smoke near the surface of the stove along with an unpleasant odor. This is normal. If you are indoors, keep the area well ventilated. Those with health issues or sensitivities should avoid the area until the curing process is completed. The fumes should not continue after three short burns.
Interior of a rustic style large living room in the forest.
OTHER THOUGHTS
A couple other quick points worth mentioning. A spray trigger, attached to the nozzle of the paint can is a good idea. It’s inexpensive and easy to use. It will help to insure a smooth application of the paint. Also, think about painting the connector pipe (or the vent pipe on your gas model) the same color to match the new color of the stove! It’s a nice, finishing touch for the room.
Products like refractory cement, silicone sealant, rope and tape gasket, high temperature paint, paint sample cards, replacement firebrick, glass cleaner, etc. are available at your nearby WE LOVE FIRE® dealer. If they don’t have it in stock, they’ll be glad to order it!
Keep in mind that the extra time and effort in surface preparation and applying three thin coats of paint will lead to the best results for a beautiful and long-lasting finish for your stove.
Electric fireplaces are more popular than ever. Their beauty, versatility, cleanliness, and performance are truly impressive.
In this article, we’ll discuss several frequent questions that often arise when the subject of electric fireplaces comes up.
How does an electric fireplace work?
Do electric fireplace really heat?
How to operate an electric fireplace?
How long can you leave any electric fireplace turned on?
HOW DOES AN ELECTRIC FIREPLACE WORK?
Electric fireplaces are extremely easy and convenient to use. There are two main adjustments to turn on and off with an electric fireplace. One is the lights and “flames” with the fireplace; the other is the heat. Both functions operate with a remote control. Most remotes have a manual and an automatic mode.
The lighting effects and flames can be operated with or without the heat on. A series of LED lights can be adjusted to the colors and brightness you prefer. Lighting effects are combined with many optional log styles, pebbles, clear and colored fire glass, rocks and glowing embers for the “media” inside your fireplace. It’s truly an impressive look that you’ll be proud to show family and friends.
The heat from an electric fireplace is much like the heat from an electric baseboard unit you might find in a bedroom or bathroom. Typically, the heating element on high will produce 1500 watts of power and half of that on low.
DO ELECTRIC FIREPLACES REALLY HEAT?
Yes, they do! But, if you’re hoping that an electric fireplace will heat the majority of your house, you’ll need to adjust your expectations. Think “supplemental heat”, particularly in the area within 10 – 15 feet of the fireplace.
The heating element on many electrics is 1500 watts. This translates to about 5100 BTU’s of heat. For comparison, a gas fireplace might have a burner capable of 20-40,000 BTU’s and wood fireplaces and stoves will range from 15-60,000 BTU’s per hour. A forced air furnace in an 1800-2000 square foot home is probably 80-100,000 BTU’s per hour.
So, yes an electric fireplace, stove or insert will heat, just don’t expect too much from it.
HOW TO OPERATE AN ELECTRIC FIREPLACE?
Most electric fireplaces can be operated manually by a touch panel or switches, located on the bottom of the unit, or with a convenient remote control. Settings include:
1) the fireplace on, the heater off.
2) Fireplace on, heater on high.
3) Fireplace on, heater on low.
Adjustments for the flame, mood lighting and color effects are typically done with the remote. Be sure to read and understand the owner’s manual, as details for adjustments will vary from model to model.
HOW LONG CAN YOU LEAVE ANY ELECTRIC FIREPLACE TURNED ON?
An electric fireplace can be left on for an indefinite period of time. However, with the heating element on 24/7, you will notice a difference in your electric bill.
That being said, many people leave their electric fireplace operating for extended periods of time, with the heat turned off. Much has been said about the spectacular effects of today’s electric fireplaces. The colors, media options and the inexpensive costs to enjoy the light show are reasons enough to keep your fireplace on all the time! Some folks use electric fireplaces as subdued lighting, left on overnight. Many design the media in an electric fireplace to complement their lifestyle! Some use the fire and ice effects as a subliminal cooling effect in the summertime! But one thing for sure, everyone will have their favorite settings and effects and will find a way to enjoy the fireplace!
Everything you ever wanted to know about charcoal BBQing but were afraid to ask… Part #1
It seems a burning question on the interweb is all about charcoal BBQing, not about grills, accessories, recipes, etc. but about the charcoal itself. We are glad to edumacate you to make you learn stuff.
But first, a tiny bit of history (not super boring):
When gas grills started to gain popularity in the ’70s, charcoal grills began their slow fade into oblivion. Eventually, it became ‘uncool’ to cook with charcoal briquette on a portable hibachi!
Ambiance Kamado 25 Charcoal Grill
Fast forward to the 1990s, and charcoal BBQing began its renaissance. Due to some were longing for the taste of their childhood. Then, the ‘Foodie’ culture began in earnest (not Ernest – he was sad excuse of a cook anyway) and they were looking for new food ‘experiences’. Around the same time, new cooking appliances such as the Kamado style BBQ (like our Ambiance Modell XX – Kamado 25 – Ambiance (ambiancefireplaces.com), improvements on the tried-and-true kettle-style, the barrel style, portable and outdoor kitchen built-in, and more, began to enter the market.
Finally, (that blessed word!) charcoal itself began to evolve, with consumers facing a myriad of choices of briquettes (some self-lighting) and lump charcoal from various hardwood species.
Without further ado, let’s plunge into this hot topic.
IS CHARCOAL BBQING BETTER THAN GAS?
Yes and no…
Oh, you want more? Please read through the following pros and cons of each appliance. And before your twitching fingers can start texting me a devastating counterargument for each of those, please read to the conclusion. And feel free to provide us with more Pros and Cons if we missed any.
GAS PROS:
Convenience – Easy to light and control
Gas fuel might be cheaper than charcoal over the long run
Excels at high-temperature cooking (searing steaks, for example)
Easier to control the temperature
Typically, better for cooking for large crowds
CHARCOAL PROS:
Provides a nice smoky flavor
Versatility – Can cook a steak at high-temps or slow smoke
Can heat up faster than gas grills
Ashes can be used in your garden to provide needed minerals
Depending on options can be more affordable
Also more affordable to maintain
GAS CONS:
Requires parts replacement (igniter, burner, etc.)
Doesn’t really impart flavor
Does not perform well if wanting to smoke meat
Typically not portable
CHARCOAL CONS:
Lengthy fire startup procedure
Charcoal can burn unevenly
Temperature control can be difficult
It can be messier and more difficult to clean
Conclusion: For each of the cons above, there are solutions. Either a change in procedure or accessories would make these points invalid.
But… if we had to distill it to one thing: Charcoal provides better taste and smoky flavor. On the other hand, if you are looking for convenience (ease of adjustment, cleaning, etc.), gas is likely to be your choice.
WHY DOES CHARCOAL BBQ TASTE BETTER?
This is one thing gas grills can’t come close : Wood smoke flavor.
Why is charcoal better? Let’s dispel some myths first. If you cook on high heat on a charcoal BBQ, it is very unlikely you are getting all the benefits of wood smoke taste in your food. The reason for this is high heat coming from the charcoal is burning most of the volatile compounds (wood smoke). So, unless you add some wood chips, most of the flavor will be imparted by meat drippings being vaporized on the hot coals. Which is not a bad thing either.
However, the primary reason people use a charcoal BBQ is the ability to cook ‘Low n Slow’. Ribs, Beer Can Chicken, Smoked Salmon, Turkey, etc., the sky is the limit if you want to impart that wonderful smoky flavor.
Lower cooking temperatures allows your lump charcoal wood smoke to really shine through. You can also add some hardwood chips or chunks to add additional smoke.
Wanna know how to do it? Please click on the following link to our ‘Low n Slow’ cooking articles series.
HOW IS BBQ CHARCOAL MADE?
Most people use either lump or charcoal briquettes, so we’ll focus on the process for each as it is very different.
Lump Charcoal: Is typically made from leftover from sawmills, furniture manufacturers and others. It is then put into a large container, heated up to combustion temperatures, but since oxygen is restricted, it does not ignite. However, all the water and some volatile compound is extracted. This process can take a day or more. An interesting note: if you ever bought a bottle of ‘liquid smoke’, this is basically leftover from this process. Water vapor infused with wood smoke.
Charcoal Briquette: The same mill who processed lump charcoal is left with small pieces and charcoal dust that cannot be re-sold as is. They mix this dust with binders such as starch then compress it into briquettes and baked to harden them up. Other manufacturers use sawdust from mixed wood from lumber mills. Once this sawdust is turned into charcoal it is mixed with various additives. This is then molded into their pillow shape.
Since briquette manufacturers do not provide a list of ‘ingredients’ of the binders used, some people are concerned about additives. Some brands have responded by offering ‘Natural Hardwood Briquette” which contains no binders.
If you want to see an interesting video about the whole process, click on this YouTube video.
IS CHARCOAL BBQING ALLOWED IN PARKS OR PUBLIC SPACES?
This is a highly recurring question on the Internet. For obvious reasons, you should check the answer with your local by-laws.
Besides checking with your local authorities, common sense and safety should be foremost when handling combustible material in public.
The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) has provided a valuable checklist to this effect: Grilling_safety_Tips.pdf (nfpa.org)
Finally, neighborliness should prevail if you are close to a crowd to ensure they don’t mind. Also, please be aware if younger children and others with respiratory diseases may be nearby. In such case, you may need to reduce the amount of smoke your grill produces.
WHICH TYPE OF CHARCOAL IS BEST FOR BBQ?
Boy, this is a controversial question among BBQ aficionados. But looking at what the experts and pitmasters say, it doesn’t seem to matter that much. Both lump charcoal and briquettes have their pros and cons as you can see below. After which we will discuss if a specific ‘brand’ makes a difference.
LUMP PROS
Less processed – more ‘natural.’
No binders mean fewer ashes than briquette
Puts out more smoke than briquette
Has an unlimited shelf-life
BRIQUETTE PROS
Consistent – From bag to bag, the same amount of BTU
Longer and steadier burn
Environmentally friendly – made from recycled material
LUMP CONS
The manufacturer may not list the species or provenance of their raw material
Foreign material could have crept in (Rocks, plastic, etc.)
Maybe more expensive than briquettes
It Burns faster than briquettes
BRIQUETTE CONS
If not a 100% Natural brand, will contain fillers
Produce more ash than Lump charcoal
Takes longer to light
Most manufacturers do not list what fillers are added
Self-igniting match-light charcoal contains mineral spirit which can taint the food
Need to be fully ignited to reduce off-taste
Has a limited shelf-life
Briquette VS LumpsWhile you might reasonably conclude the purest and most professional pitmasters would always gravitate to lump charcoal, that is not always the case. Many pitmasters prefer briquettes for its consistency and long and steady burn. Since it has a more significant impact on the overall flavor than the ‘type’ of charcoal; Pitmasters would rather spend their cooking efforts on food quality, ingredients, and others instead.
The original question was, “What type of charcoal is best for BBQ’ing?”. This could imply, “Which brand is best?”. I am aware of only 2 sites that have done a comparative study on this, and their links are below.
This one by WireCutter The Best Charcoal for Grilling | Reviews by Wirecutter (nytimes.com) should be taken with a grain of salt. The title explains why. If you are ‘grilling’ (cooking at high temperature) versus BBQ’ing (cooking ‘Low n Slow’), this article may be helpful. Charcoal is rated on how hot it gets, how long it lasts, and how little ash it produces.
However, one of the worst charcoal I used was also one of the best for ‘Low n Slow’ cooking. It was darn near impossible to light and left an excessive amount of ashes. But, it burned slow and steady without runaway heat or having to refill multiple times for BBQ ribs. So, it depends on what you are trying to achieve.
The following link, The Lump Charcoal Database — Naked Whiz Charcoal Ceramic Cooking, actually goes through testing and rating various brands of charcoal. Which I find amazing. The only problem with this approach is, can a charcoal manufacturer really control its raw material from one batch to another or year to year? So again, test yourself and go with what works for you.
CAN BBQ CHARCOAL GO BAD?
Lump charcoal can last just about forever as long as you keep it dry.
Briquette is another story. It is made of binder such as starch and absorbs moisture much easier than lump charcoal. Self-igniting charcoal has a year or two shelf life before the igniting chemicals evaporate.
What should you do if your charcoal goes damp? For either lump or briquette, you can lay them out in the sun for a day. But if the briquettes easily crumble, you may as well get a new bag.
CAN I USE BBQ CHARCOAL ON MY GAS GRILL?
You shouldn’t, but you can.
Firstly, here is why you shouldn’t. Your grill will fill quickly with ashes. This may clog the nozzles of your burners. And, if you are like me and not prone to clean your BBQ after every use, the ashes can absorb moisture or, worse, get wet. This acidic mush will start eroding the bottom of your grill. This ain’t bad if you were trying to convince your spouse you needed a new grill anyway.
But if you have an old grill and the burners no longer work, you can certainly remove all the old components and refit your grill into a BBQ. Not ideal, but there are YouTube videos about this.
Why not head over to your WE LOVE FIRE local dealer instead? I am sure they have a charcoal BBQ that fits your budget. And, what’s best, they carry the latest in ‘hybrid’ BBQ, meaning it can burn both gas and charcoal. Or some gas models come standard with a charcoal and smoker tray.
Napoleon Gaz Grill with Charcoal Pan
IS BBQ CHARCOAL ACTIVATED ?
Surprisingly, this is an often-asked strange question. Those asking are really wondering if BBQ charcoal can be used for water purification or medicine.
Charcoal manufacturers activate it by use of steam or hot air to erode its internal surface, which increases the outside surface area and its adsorption rate—the capacity to bind materials to a surface. Because of those adsorption abilities, charcoal has earned a reputation as a kind of bodily super-cleanser.
The medicinal use of activated charcoal is very specific, and no one should be eating the stuff by the spoonful. Or, you may have to do a quick dash to the ‘John’ (or so a ‘friend’ told me).
While there is no evidence of people dying from eating BBQ charcoal, we certainly do not recommend doing so. If you have health concerns, better consult with your health practitioner.
CAN I USE BBQ CHARCOAL TO FILTER WATER / AIR?
Charcoal specific to filtration purposes is called Air, Water, or Vapor phase carbon. They are manufactured in a precise manner to achieve the desired application.
Charcoal made for water purification is ‘activated’.
But in a pinch, you can use BBQ lump charcoal (not briquettes as they may have binders and chemicals). And here is how you can do it.
How to make an Improvised Charcoal Water Filter:
Use charcoal from a reputable source
Crush your charcoal into small bits, from powder up to the size of aquarium gravel.
Use a tall cylindrical container (taller is better than wider) and punch some small holes at the bottom.
You can pour water at the top, and the purified water will come out the bottom. Don’t make the holes too big, you want the water to spend as much time as possible with the charcoal to filter the water.
IN THE 2ND CHARCOAL ARTICLE WE WILL COVER THE FOLLOWING TOPICS:
How to:
What Is The Best Method To Light Charcoal?
How Long Before The BBQ Coals Are Ready?
Health Related
Is Charcoal BBQ Good Or Bad For You?
Gardening:
Is BBQ Charcoal Good For Orchids And Other Plants?
Can I Use BBQ Charcoal Ashes In The Garden?
Buying Advice